The French red wine industry confronts an existential crisis as younger generations increasingly abandon traditional wine consumption in favour of alternative beverages. Data from the Conseil Interprofessionnel du vin de Bordeaux (CIVB) reveals a staggering 90 per cent decline in red wine consumption since the 1970s.
Total wine consumption across all varieties has plummeted by more than 80 per cent since 1945, according to Nielsen survey data. The decline is particularly pronounced among Generation Z, who purchase merely half the volume of their millennial counterparts.
Spiros Malandrakis, a drinks analyst at Euromonitor International, highlights the industry’s failure to connect with younger consumers, noting a historical complacency stemming from wine’s popularity among baby boomers. The generational shift is stark, as CIVB board member Jean-Pierre Durand illustrates: whilst grandfathers typically consumed 300 litres annually, their sons drink 180 litres, and grandsons merely 30 litres.
The industry faces additional challenges, including diminished demand from China, climate change impacts, and shifting consumer preferences towards rosé, beer, spirits, and alcohol-free alternatives. High-volume, heavily tannic reds are experiencing the steepest decline, prompting producers to pivot towards higher-quality wines or diversify into white and low-alcohol varieties.
Some producers, like Château Mauvinon in Saint-Émilion, have already adapted by introducing white and orange wines, alongside experimenting with low-alcohol options. The estate’s owner, Brigitte Tribaudeau, recognised early signs of changing consumption patterns, particularly among younger women.
The Bordeaux region has initiated a significant response, implementing a two-year plan to uproot up to 9,500 hectares of vines, offering €6,000 per hectare through a €57 million government and CIVB-funded programme. This measure aims to address overproduction and prevent disease spread in under-maintained vineyards.
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