Rococo Style Returns to Fashion as Designers Embrace Eighteenth Century Whimsy and Inspiratio

The world of high fashion is witnessing a renaissance of the eighteenth century as leading designers revisit the whimsy and lightness of rococo. Inspired by artists such as Thomas Gainsborough and driven by a shift in social perspective, prominent names on the catwalk are turning to this gilded era for creative impetus. Max Mara’s creative director Ian Griffiths observed that the era’s characteristic playfulness and delicacy seem perfectly suited to the current zeitgeist, with consumers seeking clothes that elevate mood and offer a sense of escapism.

Once maligned for its associations with colonial cruelty and social inequity, the eighteenth century has been traditionally off limits for inspiration. Yet a new wave of cultural reflection, sparked in part by last year’s Entangled Pasts exhibition at the Royal Academy, is reshaping the narrative. The exhibition notably highlighted the presence of black figures in Gainsborough’s works, offering a more nuanced view of the period and its complexities. Griffiths noted this was pivotal in his reconsideration of rococo, seeing the era as one where the foundation for justice and abolition was also being established.

For Milan Fashion Week, Max Mara unveiled its Rococo Modern collection, an array of pieces featuring voluminous organza, delicately layered skirts and hues reminiscent of Gainsborough’s masterworks. Surface descriptions compared the collection’s ornamentation to gilded acanthus leaves unfurling, with subtle pastel tones evoking the wardrobes of figures such as Marie Antoinette and Madame de Pompadour. These designs reflect not only a yearning for aesthetic beauty but also a conscious engagement with history and its reinterpretation.

British milliner Stephen Jones has contributed to the trend with his new Gainsborough hat, inspired by the periwinkle blue skies of Gainsborough’s paintings and specifically referencing portraits like The Blue Boy and Countess Howe. Jones incorporated contemporary materials such as cellophane for a modern twist, demonstrating how designers are blending heritage with innovation.

The Victoria and Albert Museum has further underscored the movement with its Marie Antoinette Style exhibition, delving into the enduring appeal of rococo elegance. Far from a superficial revival, the current fascination with eighteenth century design signals a more thoughtful engagement with the contradictions of the past, merging moral reconsideration with fresh creative vision.

As global fashion moves into 2025, the embrace of rococo style hints at an industry that is willing to reconcile beauty with social awareness. Forward-looking designers acknowledge the weight of history as they craft garments informed by both conscience and craft, suggesting that lightness and depth can indeed coexist on today’s catwalks.