The Amsterdam Shops Losing Their Battle Against Rising Rents

At the heart of Amsterdam, nestled on the picturesque Haarlemmerdijk, is ‘t Zonnetje, a tea shop steeped in history. Founded in 1642 and run by Marie-Louise Velder since 1999, this shop has become a symbol of Amsterdam’s rich heritage. From its mahogany shelves stacked with loose-leaf tea to its vintage tea tins and charming old master-style pictures, the store represents an era slowly fading from the city’s streets. Yet, after nearly four centuries of trade, its doors will soon close due to insurmountable rent increases.

Velder, now 76 and the store’s energetic custodian, faces a rental fee hike to €4,500 per month, a marked leap from the €3,000 she currently pays. Initially, the landlord sought €6,000, but an independent arbitration reduced the figure. Despite the adjustment, the burden remains too much for the historic shop to bear. “It makes me sick,” Velder comments, sipping a cup of her intricately crafted Ceylon tea. This gut-wrenching decision underscores a wider issue facing independent businesses in the Dutch capital – the relentless rise in rents.

Traditionally, shops like ‘t Zonnetje have played a pivotal role in creating the unique charm of Amsterdam’s streets. Once offering goods like coal and buckets of water during the city’s Dutch Empire-era boom, today’s ‘t Zonnetje refined its craft over centuries to specialise in premium teas and coffees. Yet, with a surge in generic chain stores and tourist-driven outlets, these cherished establishments are disappearing. Johannes Wilhelm, a local businessman and loyal customer, laments that without such shops, Amsterdam risks losing its identity to a tide of cheese shops and pancake stores catering exclusively to tourists.

The climbing rents signal a transformation in the business ecosystem of Amsterdam. Market analysts note that prime retail spaces throughout the Netherlands have become increasingly attractive to larger retail chains. These brands, with standardised offerings and larger budgets, often replace smaller independent proprietors, redefining the cityscape. Karel Loeff, director of the conservation organisation Heemschut, warns that while physical infrastructure such as historic wooden beams may be protected, the unique functions of such spaces – like being a centuries-old tea shop – are far harder to preserve.

City officials have grappled with this issue for years, attempting to balance the needs of local residents, independent retailers, and the growing influx of tourists. Measures introduced in 2017 sought to restrict the spread of tourist-oriented shops in certain areas, yet challenges persist. Urban geographer Iris Hagemans asserts that while tourism has undoubtedly reshaped Amsterdam’s shopping districts, the effect is not uniform across the city. She explains that some areas are overwhelmed by souvenir shops, but others have managed to thrive through increased tourist footfall.

As Amsterdam approaches its 750th anniversary in October, plans are rumoured to support independent businesses during this milestone year. However, for Velder, such efforts come too late. The closure of ‘t Zonnetje represents more than the loss of a shop; it symbolises the broader conflict between historic tradition and commercial evolution. Where independent ventures give way to chain retailers, Velder’s story acts as a cautionary tale for many other small business owners navigating similar challenges.